El Tajin sits in the humid lowlands of northern Veracruz, and most tourists headed to the coast drive right past it. Their loss. The Pyramid of the Niches — with 365 recesses cut into its faces, one for each day of the year — is one of the most distinctive structures in Mesoamerica. The site was a major city from roughly 600-1200 AD, built by the Totonac civilization.
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Pyramid of the Niches
The main pyramid has six levels and 365 deeply recessed square niches. The original niches were painted red and blue. At certain times of day, the play of light and shadow across the niches is dramatic. The structure is unlike anything else in Mexico — not Maya, not Aztec, not Zapotec. The Totonacs had their own architectural language.
Ball Courts
El Tajin has 17 ball courts — more than any other site in Mesoamerica. The South Ball Court has detailed relief panels showing the ball game ritual, including sacrifice scenes. The game here was clearly central to the civic and religious life of the city.
Voladores
The Totonac voladores (flyers) perform at El Tajin — four men tied by their ankles to a spinning platform on top of a 30-meter pole, spiraling down as the rope unwinds. This is the original home of the ritual, which is now also performed at Papantla and for tourists at various sites around Mexico. The El Tajin performance feels more authentic.
Getting There
El Tajin is about 15km from Papantla, which is the nearest town with hotels and bus service. ADO buses run to Papantla from Mexico City TAPO (5 hours) and from Veracruz (4 hours). Local taxis from Papantla to the ruins cost about 100 pesos.
