La Quemada (also called Chicomostoc) perches on a rocky hillside between Zacatecas city and Guadalajara, visible from the highway. The terraced ruins climbing the slope look like a fortress — and it probably was one, guarding the northern frontier of Mesoamerican civilization against the nomadic Chichimec peoples to the north.
The Site
The ruins are built into the hillside in terraces. The Hall of Columns at the base has 11 standing columns. A grand stairway climbs the hill to a citadel at the top. The Votive Pyramid is one of the most intact structures. The whole place has a defensive feel — narrow passages, thick walls, high vantage points.
Archaeologists found evidence of cannibalism and mass sacrifice here — skull racks and dismembered bones. Whatever happened at La Quemada, it was not peaceful.
Getting There
La Quemada is about 50km south of Zacatecas city on Highway 54 toward Guadalajara. You can see it from the road. A taxi from the highway turnoff to the entrance is a short ride. Alternatively, second-class buses from Zacatecas stop at the turnoff — ask the driver for “La Quemada.” Combine with Alta Vista for a full day of Zacatecas archaeology.
