Bonampak is a small Maya site deep in the Lacandon jungle of Chiapas, but its murals make it one of the most important archaeological discoveries in Mexico. Three rooms of vivid paintings from around 790 AD show scenes of war, sacrifice, celebration and political ritual in detail that survives nowhere else in the Maya world.
The Murals
Room 1 shows a royal court scene — musicians, dancers, the presentation of a young heir. Room 2 depicts a battle and its aftermath — captives being tortured, their fingernails pulled out on the steps of a pyramid. Room 3 shows a celebration and ritual bloodletting on the steps of a pyramid, with elaborately costumed dancers.
The colors have faded but enough remains to be remarkable. The detail in the clothing, headdresses and facial expressions gives a picture of Maya court life that no other source provides.
Getting There
Bonampak is about 150km southeast of Palenque by road. Tours from Palenque combine Bonampak and Yaxchilan in a long day trip — you drive to Bonampak first, then continue to Frontera Corozal on the Usumacinta River, and take a boat upstream to Yaxchilan. Some tours do it as a two-day trip with an overnight in Lacanja Chansayab, a Lacandon Maya community near Bonampak.
The road from Palenque is paved but long. Independent travel is possible but the river boat to Yaxchilan requires arranging with boatmen at Frontera Corozal.