Aguascalientes is known for one thing above all others: the Feria Nacional de San Marcos, which runs for three weeks in April and May and is one of the biggest fairs in Mexico. Outside of fair season, it is a pleasant but quiet colonial city on the highway between Guadalajara and Zacatecas, with good food and a walkable center.
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Feria de San Marcos
The fair dates back to the 1820s and draws over 7 million visitors during its run. Bullfights, cockfights, concerts, a massive casino, agricultural exhibitions, food stalls and a carnival. The Jardin de San Marcos — a small formal garden — is the epicenter. Aguascalientes is completely transformed during the feria. Hotels book out months ahead and prices triple.
The City
The rest of the year, Aguascalientes is a mid-size Mexican city with a compact colonial core. The cathedral and government palace on the main plaza are handsome. The Museo Nacional de la Muerte (National Museum of Death) covers Mexican attitudes toward death — skulls, Calaveras, Day of the Dead traditions. It is better than it sounds.
Aguascalientes produces some of Mexico’s best embroidered textiles (deshilados). The downtown shops sell table linens and clothing with intricate drawn-thread work.
Getting There
On the highway between Guadalajara (3 hours by Primera Plus) and Zacatecas (2 hours). ETN and Estrella Blanca also serve the city. Mexico City is about 6 hours by bus. Small airport with domestic flights.