Morelia is the capital of Michoacan and one of the best-preserved colonial cities in Mexico. UNESCO-listed, built entirely in pink cantera stone, with an aqueduct, a towering cathedral and a university that has been operating since 1540. It is also the base for one of the great natural spectacles in the Americas — the monarch butterfly migration in the mountains nearby.
In This Article
Monarch Butterflies
Every winter, millions of monarch butterflies arrive in the oyamel fir forests of the mountains west of Morelia after migrating from the US and Canada. The butterfly sanctuaries — El Rosario and Sierra Chincua are the most visited — are open from roughly November through March. The peak is usually January and February.
El Rosario sanctuary is about 2 hours west of Morelia by car. You hike uphill for about 30-45 minutes through the forest to the colony sites. On a sunny day when the butterflies are active, millions of them fill the air, covering every branch and trunk. It is overwhelming in a way that photos cannot capture.
The City
The cathedral dominates the skyline — twin towers rising 66 meters. The interior has a fine organ and the evening light show on the facade is worth seeing. The aqueduct runs for about a kilometer along Avenida Acueducto — 253 arches built in the 18th century.
Morelia has a strong sweet-making tradition. The Calle de Dulces near the Palacio Clavijero sells ates (fruit pastes), cajeta (goat milk caramel), chongos zamoranos and other regional sweets. The covered market has cheap food stalls and local produce.
Getting There
Primera Plus and ETN run from Mexico City Terminal Poniente (4.5 hours) and from Guadalajara (3.5 hours). Morelia airport has flights from Mexico City. The city is well connected to the Bajio circuit — combine with Patzcuaro (1 hour), Uruapan (2 hours) and the butterfly sanctuaries.