Merida: Colonial Capital of the Yucatan

Merida is the capital of Yucatan state and the cultural center of the peninsula. Founded in 1542 on top of the Maya city of T’ho, it has a well-preserved colonial center, excellent food (Yucatecan cuisine is distinct from the rest of Mexico), and works as a base for visiting Chichen Itza, Uxmal and the Puuc Route ruins.

In This Article

The Centro

The main plaza is anchored by the cathedral — the oldest on the American mainland, built from the stones of Maya temples. The Montejo house on the south side of the plaza has carved conquerors standing on the heads of the conquered. Calle 60 runs north to the Parque Santa Lucia where free concerts and dance performances happen most evenings.

Paseo de Montejo is the city’s grand boulevard — mansions built during the henequen (sisal) boom in the late 1800s line both sides. The GRAN Museo del Mundo Maya on the outskirts has an excellent collection covering Maya civilization and the modern Yucatec Maya.

Food

Yucatecan cuisine is its own thing. Cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pork in achiote) is the iconic dish — the best comes from market stalls and neighborhood joints, not fancy restaurants. Papadzules (tortillas stuffed with hard-boiled egg, covered in pumpkin seed sauce), salbutes, panuchos, relleno negro — the Yucatecan food vocabulary is extensive and rewarding.

Bus Connections

The CAME (first-class bus terminal) handles ADO services to Cancun (4 hours), Campeche (2.5 hours), Mexico City (18 hours overnight), and Villahermosa (9 hours). The Noreste terminal near the market handles second-class buses to smaller towns including Izamal, Ticul, and the Puuc Route villages.

For Chichen Itza (2 hours), Uxmal (1.5 hours), and Dzibilchaltun (30 minutes), buses leave from both terminals. Second-class is fine for these short runs. Alternatively, shared colectivos to Chichen Itza leave from outside the Noreste terminal.

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