San Luis Potosi gets overlooked on the gringo trail between Mexico City and the northern border, which is a shame. The colonial center is handsome — pink sandstone buildings, wide plazas, a cathedral that glows at night — and the city works as a base for the surreal landscape of the Huasteca Potosina to the east, where turquoise rivers cut through tropical canyons.
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The Centro
The main plaza (Jardin Hidalgo) is one of the most elegant in Mexico. The cathedral, the Palacio de Gobierno and surrounding colonial buildings are all pink cantera stone. The pedestrian streets connecting the plazas are lively in the evening — families, street vendors, kids playing. The Templo del Carmen has a spectacular Churrigueresque facade.
Museums
The Museo Nacional de la Mascara (mask museum) has an extensive collection of Mexican ceremonial masks. The Centro de las Artes occupies a former penitentiary — a massive stone building converted into art galleries, workshops and performance spaces. The conversion is well done, with the cell blocks and watchtowers still visible.
Huasteca Potosina
The real draw of the San Luis Potosi region is the Huasteca — a lush, mountainous area about 4-5 hours east of the city. The Rio Tampaon and its tributaries have carved canyons through the limestone, creating waterfalls, turquoise pools and cave systems. Edward James’ Las Pozas surrealist sculpture garden near Xilitla is the most famous attraction, but the swimming holes and waterfalls of Tamasopo, Minas Viejas and Tamul are equally worth the trip.
Getting There
San Luis Potosi sits on the main highway between Mexico City (5 hours by bus) and Monterrey (6 hours). ETN, Primera Plus and Estrella Blanca all serve the city from Terminal Norte. The city also has an airport with domestic flights.