Bonampak  Ruin Site
Chiapas State, Mexico

Murals and Standing Stones
Bonampak Ruin Site view from the complex called the Acropolis
Bonampak, an ancient Mayan city, was at its height from 600AD to 1000 AD.
Noted for its mural wall paintings in vivid colors that depict event before and after a battle and for
its large stele, the largest in Mexico, Bonampak can be reached in about three hours via collective
taxi or tour bus out of the town of Palenque.
Hotel, Posada: La Canada   $25 night USD

Bus: ADO Station in town   

Camping:  Maya Bell RV and Camping  Park      
Phone: 011-52- 916-345-0798  
At one time the buildings were
coated in stucco and painted as the
remnants of red paint show
Each small building at the top of the Acropolis houses
a sandstone column
An abandoned airplane at the
end of a grass runway at
Bonampak Ruin Site.
View form the top of the
Acropolus
Bonampak Ruin Site, is an abandoned stone city built by the Mayans
between the 5th and 10th centuries AD near the Usamacinta River and the
border with Guatemala in Mexico's southern most State of Chiapas.
Bonampak was once an important Mayan political center allied with nearby
Yaxchilan. The Mayan inhabitants abandoned the city around 1000 AD.
From the city of Palenque, collectivos and tour buses make the two and a half
hour trip to Bonampak and Yaxchilan.   Tours also leave Palenque and follow
a different road for the cascades of Agua Azule and for San Cristobal de las
Casas.
To visit Bonampak Ruin Site: For Independent Travelers: Catch
the White collective taxis (no frills vans) for 60 pesos that make runs to the
Frontera about every hour starting at 5 am. You will meet the local folks as
they pick up and drop off passengers and cargo all along the way.
Stop at the crossroads for Bonampak where another cab stand will have trips
for the additional 14 miles on a dirt road to the site.  Could be $70 pesos  
round trip.   Look for the man with the red VW.
To continue beyond Bonampak and enter the Frontera, have 15 Pesos
additional.  
Have lots of small change; no one will have change to break anything over a
twenty peso bill. Inquire first before taking a taxi or collectivo; prices vary
greatly.  Have lots of water.
This road runs parallel to the Usamacinta River, a frontier along the
Guatemalan border that until 1990 did not have a road. The local people have
been in an uneasy truce with the government for several years after a
revolution  centered in San Cristobal de las Casas that simmered down about
eight years go. These isolated people are not used to strangers and can
seem unfriendly. If you are not comfortable travelling independently, ( Know
some Spanish, know the money, can tolerate high temperatures and high
humidity, know how to find north if you are stranded, have lots of water)  go as
part of a group tour out of Palenque.

Two outfits run the no frills collectivos to the Frontera: Chambalu and
Chamoan.  A terminal is located near the Cabeza Maya sculpture, just down
the hill and to the right side of the road you can find their terminal. I
nquire at
the tourist center  on Avenue Juarez at the Plaza of Artisans.
Transportes
Chamoan has an office nearby on Ave Miguel Hidalgo.
Most of the collectivos round the Cabeza Maya, a handy place to catch a ride
to the ruins. They also stop at the gas station just after the monument Madre
Chol on the  road to Agua Azule.
Tour agencies located in the town of Palenque also run trips that are guided.

Immigration authorities are active on the road, best to have a passport and
copy of your Mexican visa.  

Campgrounds, hotels, and posadas are plentiful in Palenque along the road
to Palenque ruins. The village of 85,000 has plentiful bus service with an ADO
terminal on the main street and several others nearby. Campgrounds, inns,
posadas, and plush hotels are available on the entrance road to the
archaeological site.
Bonampak is most noted for its
murals
depicting a battle and later
torture of prisoners.

Bonampak's other striking feature is
the many carved stones, one, the  
largest stele in Mexico.
These appear to pay homage to the
rulers of Bonampak  and most
significantly to the ruler in power at the
time of the battle depicted in the
murals, Chaan Muan II..

Most notable of the stones perhaps is
Stele 2  pictured at the left which shows
the Emperor of Bonampak, Chaan
Muan II who ruled from 772 to 792 AD.
He is shown accompanied by two
women.
He is depicted with his wife, the sister
of the ruler of nearby Yaxchilan, and
by his mother as they carry out a blood
letting ritual, his mother standing in
front of him holds a devil fish spine to
perform the piercing, his wife standing
behind, holds the vessel that will
receive the blood for later ritual
burning.
The carved stones are placed throughout the site, several on the Acropolis and others on the
main plaza of what was the ritual center of a much larger city, most still cover by the thick
jungle along the Frontera  and the watershed of the Usumacinta River.   
The largest standing stone in Mexico,
Stele One, was carved in honor of the
ruler Chaan Muan II during his reign:  
772 to 792 AD.
At a height of nearly 20 feet, the stone
is the tallest such sculpture found to
date in Mexico.
The stone occupies a central position
in Bonampak's main plaza, now held
in place by steel cables.
Chaan Muan II is the ruler who is
depicted in the murals at Bonampak
and is also depicted in the stele
above with his wife, the sister of the
ruler of the allied city of Yaxchilan, a
ruin on the banks of the Usamacinta
River at the border with present day
Guatemala.
The emblem glyph of Bonampak
Bonampak  Ruin Site  Murals and Standing Stones
Soft Seat Travel