Moreno Glacier
Backpacking Eight Months On the Road
Bus Through South America
By David Rice  
Moreno Glacier
Page Thirty Three
Moreno Glacier
Backpacking by Bus In South America
Eight Months On the Road
By David Rice  
www.softseattravel.com
Page 10
Moreno Glacier

The Antarctic cruise returned to Usuria from where I bussed
back towards the border with Chile at El Calafate.  From this
tourist town full of shops that cater to the visitors to Moreno
Glacier I booked a tour. A bus came by the hotel next morning
and we headed for the glacier.
On the way through a prairie surrounded by mountains we
passed Gouchos in their felt hats and high boots tending cattle
in the high plains of Argentina.
We reached the glacier and visited several viewing places
were we could see the glacier calve. I took a boat tour to the
face of the glacier to get a closer view. No words can describe
the power of nature when viewed that close. I felt again the
deep feelings that I had at Grey Glacier and at the Devil's
Thraot falls: Humbled..

When I left el Calafate I headed for El Chalten and to the
FitzRoy Range, a Mecca for world-class climbers and ardent
hikers.  Passing beside the Rio FitzRoy in the valley I could see
the Fitzroy Range in the distance, a dramatic sight because of
the steepness of the peaks.

I was headed for El Chitan, a frontier town in the middle of
nowhere where you must bring the appropriate Argentine peso
because there is no ATM and no money changers.
I headed for the free campground to pitch my tent in the rustic
site where I could get water and had access to a bathroom.
After securing everything I walked back into town for what
would be my last sumptuous meal for the next six days,a dinner
of roast chicken and mashed potatoes.

after dinner I toured the town looking for local information
about camping in the FitzRoy Range. I bought six days worth of
supplies in town including a bottle of wine. Lunch meat and
bread, which I would eat early on, granola bars, dried fruit, and
nuts filled my sack.

On this trip into the mountains I planned to do some strenuous
hiking so I traveled light. I did not lug a stove and I did not miss
my coffee. I had all I needed. What I have is all I have and If I
don't have it I don't need it. I saw many campers that brought
the whole house and I felt lucky that I can live without anything
but air and water for a short time.

I hiked for five days and a couple of times I got lost but the
well-marked trails always got me back on a familiar track. A
couple of climbs took all I had but the scenery was well worth
the effort. The campsites were well marked and the camping
was restricted to the established camps where there was
latrine facilities.
Each night I camped at a different spot near water. No fires
were allowed except in stoves. I saw few campers as it was
early in the season and cold at night but my 32-degree
square-shaped single bag kept me warm.
On the sixth day I returned to El Chilton and set my tent up and
headed to town for a good meal, my first hot meal in six days: a
hearty Argentinean stew made with vegetables and meat and a
good hunk of homemade bread.