Moreno Glacier ,Backpacking Eight Months On the Road
Bus Through South America
By David Rice  
Moreno Glacier
Page Thirty Three
Moreno Glacier
Backpacking by Bus In South America
Eight Months On the Road
By David Rice  
Moreno Glacier

The Antarctic cruise returned to Usuria from where I bussed back
towards the border with Chile at El Calafate.  From this tourist town
full of shops that cater to the visitors to Moreno Glacier I booked a
tour. A bus came by the hotel next morning and we headed for the
glacier.

On the way through a prairie surrounded by mountains we passed
Gouchos in their felt hats and high boots tending cattle in the high
plains of Argentina.

We reached the glacier and visited several viewing places were we
could see the glacier calve. I took a boat tour to the face of the
glacier to get a closer view. No words can describe the power of
nature when viewed that close. I felt again the deep feelings that I
had at Grey Glacier and at the Devil's Throat falls: Humbled..

When I left el Calafate I headed for El Chalten and to the FitzRoy
Range, a Mecca for world-class climbers and ardent hikers.  
Passing beside the Rio FitzRoy in the valley I could see the Fitzroy
Range in the distance, a dramatic sight because of the steepness
of the peaks.

I was headed for El Chitan, a frontier town in the middle of nowhere
where you must bring the appropriate Argentine peso because
there is no ATM and no money changers.

I headed for the free campground to pitch my tent in the rustic site
where I could get water and had access to a bathroom. After
securing everything I walked back into town for what would be my
last sumptuous meal for the next six days,a dinner of roast chicken
and mashed potatoes.

After dinner I toured the town looking for local information about
camping in the FitzRoy Range. I bought six days worth of supplies
in town including a bottle of wine. Lunch meat and bread, which I
would eat early on, granola bars, dried fruit, and nuts filled my sack.

On this trip into the mountains I planned to do some strenuous
hiking so I traveled light. I did not lug a stove and I did not miss my
coffee. I had all I needed. What I have is all I have and If I don't have
it I don't need it. I saw many campers that brought the whole house
and I felt lucky that I can live without anything but air and water for a
short time.

I hiked for five days and a couple of times I got lost but the
well-marked trails always got me back on a familiar track. A couple
of climbs took all I had but the scenery was well worth the effort. The
campsites were well marked and the camping was restricted to the
established camps where there was latrine facilities.

Each night I camped at a different spot near water. No fires were
allowed except in stoves. I saw few campers as it was early in the
season and cold at night but my 32-degree square-shaped single
bag kept me warm.

On the sixth day I returned to El Chilton and set my tent up and
headed to town for a good meal, my first hot meal in six days: a
hearty Argentinean stew made with vegetables and meat and a
good hunk of homemade bread.  
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